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Here’s the wire you need to hook up if you choose to run this without gps/adjustment knob.

It’s the single wire, not the paired ones.

Subaru SVX EPS(electronic power steering) pump writeup


You’ll need the bracket, a Volvo pump, a handful of fittings, some electric tid bits and some patience.

Pump:
Volvo pump
08-13 C30 t5
06-13 c70 t5
05-11 s40 NA or T5
05-11 v50 na or T5


Pressure line:
-2x 151206ERL 120 deg -6AN to -6AN hose ends
-1x m16-1.5 oring adapter fitting PN: Allstar 48210 fitting (pump)
-1x M14-1.5 oring Steel PN 591962 (rack inlet)
-75” of earls EAR-151006ERL
AN Hose, Power Steering Hose, 10 ft. Length, -6 AN, Black, Braided Fiber

Return line:
-1x 220688 (“B” suffix for black) 120 deg -6AN to -6AN
-1x M16-1.5 oring Steel PN: 48210 (rack outlet)
-75” of -6AN line (the speedmaster stuff was under sized and made my life difficult, -6AN is 6 x 1/16”  so 3/8” but this was 5/16” and really hard to get over the return barb)
AN Hose, -6 AN 5/16-IN. Stainless Steel Fuel Oil Braided Hose Line (20ft Roll)


The return can be aluminum, the pressure side must be steel or stainless steel.
I used adapter fittings that were steel as well

The routing I ran it upward with the 120 degree adapters with both parallel to each other at about 10* off directly up, the back down to the hardlines on the rack. From there I ran through the subframe opening by the swar bar and to the pump (front piece of sheet metal removed as it interferes with both feed and return)
I zip tied to things along the way to keep it from rubbing.

The wiring I’m using a big circuit breaker and a decent sized relay.

You’ll most likely want a bigger alternator to run this and bigger gauge wiring from it to the battery and running to this. My stock alt on my Celica(2grfe engine) works but those are ~160amps stock.


Link to the Celica post for pictures of the pump, the plug type, etc

https://5thgencelica.com/index.php?topic=290.0

This shows the clearancing by the upper bolt hole on the caliper, this can be reduced when using a socket head bolt (Allen head)

It’s a tight fit as stated before but it does work.

The first picture is showing the position of the caliper.
The caliper itself is tapped (m16-1.5 tap listed above as required)
Thread the bolt through from the rotor side of the bracket and make the bolt flush with the edge of the caliper mounting ear.
The calipers are high quality aluminum so they tap nicely.
(Make sure you have the calipers in the right spot, small piston touches the rotor first when the cars moving forward)

The area marked with permanent marker is where clearancing needs to occur.
It’s pretty light amount.



The last photo shows the casting flash/lump that needs to be ground down to clear.
It’s not critical to the function of the kncukle.

The other pictures show the ball joint location off the control arm.

This area is very tight. Any extra casting material needs to be removed on the knuckle, there is a lot up by the upper control arm.

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