Sc300/sc400/Supra rear BBK

[cuttyman9]

By request- Supra, sc300 and sc400 rear 4 piston bbk!


You'll need:

——————CALIPERS—————
02-10 VW Toureg (rear calipers)
03-10 Porsche Cayenne (rear calipers)
05-15 Audi Q7 (rear calipers)

(I have found car-part.com is the cheapest place to search, its an annoying website but yields the cheapest prices outside of local junkyards)

PNs  20.7673.03 and 20.7673.04


—————-HARDWARE—————-

4x hex M12-1.75x30
(McmasterCarr.com PN )

2x hex M14-1.5x30 (35mm long will work as well)
(or reuse the hardware from Cayenne/Toureg/Q7, Even though they are a bit long.)
(Mcmastercarr.com PN )

2x Hex M16-1.5x30
(Mcmastercarr.com PN )

 
———————-ROTORS—————-

2x 2008-2014 ISF rear brake rotor  PN PRT6106


——brake lines——
Stock brake lines can be used although I would recommend getting stainless braided lines as it improves feel vastly.  (testing soon)

——-Tools———
1x m16-1.5 tap
(required for taping the one ear of each caliper to mount hardware inverted with head toward rotor)



NOTE: Calipers will need to be modified but only slightly.
Depending on brand of pads clearancing the of weights might be needed. (see later posts)
I found this tool works very well for this little bit of clearancing and is pretty damn cheap!

https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/grinders-sanders/portable-belt-sanders/53-amp-12-in-heavy-duty-bandfile-belt-sander-62863.html

Their sanding belts are kinda shitty so prep for using a few.


**You will remove the brake line cover and the rubber isolator and bend the brake line up and away from the rotor area.**

**the brake lines and bleeders need to be flipped as the small pistons are on the top and the big pistons are on the bottom.**

[cuttyman9]

The first picture is showing the position of the caliper.
The caliper itself is tapped (m16-1.5 tap listed above as required)
Thread the bolt through from the rotor side of the bracket and make the bolt flush with the edge of the caliper mounting ear.
The calipers are high quality aluminum so they tap nicely.
(Make sure you have the calipers in the right spot, small piston touches the rotor first when the cars moving forward)

The area marked with permanent marker is where clearancing needs to occur.
It’s pretty light amount.



The last photo shows the casting flash/lump that needs to be ground down to clear.
It’s not critical to the function of the kncukle.

The other pictures show the ball joint location off the control arm.

This area is very tight. Any extra casting material needs to be removed on the knuckle, there is a lot up by the upper control arm.

[cuttyman9]

This shows the clearancing by the upper bolt hole on the caliper, this can be reduced when using a socket head bolt (Allen head)

It’s a tight fit as stated before but it does work.

[cuttyman9]

The first and second photo shows the other casting flash needing to be removed. The webbing interferes and it’s relatively small and thin so it’s easy to get out of there.

The last photo shows some of the clearancing on the back of the caliper.

[cuttyman9]

An alternative put up by GP_aristo on IG was to press (or tighten a nut) into the bracket backwards and use a bolt on through opposite of the other method.
This avoids tapping the caliper ear but puts a bolt head where your ball joint is so it may require aftermarket upper control arms.

Most of these photos courtesy of GP_aristo

[cuttyman9]

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